The Maddie Diaries Read online

  After you’ve cleaned and moisturized, you’re ready to do my fave part: makeup!

  STOCK YOUR TOOL KIT

  Not all brushes are created equal—just sayin’. I have learned that over the years. The ones you might pick up at a drugstore are not always as good, because the bristles are synthetic. These work just fine for creams and concealer, but when it comes to powder or shadow, they won’t hold the pigment as well. Natural bristles are softer and fluffier—but they’re also much more expensive. A good brush kit can be really pricey (like $500!), so I recommend buying just a few good brushes at first and building your collection. I’d suggest four brushes: a large powder brush, a slightly smaller blusher brush (good for blush, bronzer, and highlighter—it gives a soft, natural look), and two eye shadow brushes—one about the width of your finger for applying color across the lid, and a smaller one for smudging and blending. My other makeup must-have is a blender sponge—you know, the ones shaped like little eggs? I can’t live without mine and always find a million and one uses for them when I’m doing my makeup.

  Brush Up On Your Brushes

  When you go to a cosmetics counter, there are so many different sizes and types to choose from. Here are some basics so you know what to buy.

  Fan brush. It literally looks like a fan. Use it to sweep on blush or highlighter, even to clean up excess powder.

  Foundation brush. For blending and applying liquid or cream base to your face.

  Kabuki brush. You can use this short, round, and super-soft brush to apply any powder product or even blend in foundation or concealer.

  Oval brushes. I kind of love these, because their handle is angled and that gives you a lot of control. They come in all shapes and sizes, from big (for entire face) to narrow (for eyes and lips).

  Contour brush. Good for bronzer and also for “sculpting” the angled parts of your face, like cheekbones and jawline. It blends out harsh lines.

  Concealer brush. It’s short, firm, and tapered so you can zone in and apply a dot anywhere you need it.

  Angled eye shadow brush. For drawing medium to thick lines on the lids with either gel or powder—great for creating a winged eye.

  Liner brush. This one is really narrow and pointy, for when you want to draw a very precise line with gel, liquid, or powder.

  Eye shadow brushes. These come in a lot of different varieties: There are ones for applying base, for applying shadow to the lids, for applying color to the brow bone, and for just plain blending and detailing. It’s always nice to have an assortment, but just know you don’t need them all. I like ones with long handles that feel like a paintbrush in my hand.

  Brow brush. It’s angled with short bristles, so you can use it to fill in your brows with shadow wherever they look sparse. Don’t confuse this one with the brow brush/comb combo that you can use to shape your brows before you apply product.

  Spooly brush. You might find one of these on the back of a liner pencil. Use it to brush brows into place and blend in any color you’ve applied to brows so it looks natural, not drawn on.

  Lip brush. You use this short and stiff brush for defining and filling in lips.

  You’ll see a lot of other brushes out there, like shaders, smudgers, blenders, definers, and large, medium, small, or flat, domed, or angled variations on all of the above. Ask a makeup artist to show you what each one does before you buy it. Literally, test it out and see if you like how it works.

  SCHOOL-DAY FACE

  Keep it simple—nothing too bright or dark. You want to look your age. I also love that this makeup routine takes no more than five minutes—in case you’re running late.

  1 Start with a clean face. Follow with a light moisturizer. This will prep your skin—kind of like getting the surface all smooth and ready to paint on it.

  2 Dot on foundation—forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin. I use my fingers or a beauty blender, but you can also use a big foundation brush or kabuki brush to go in and smooth.

  3 Apply concealer where you need it. For me, that’s usually under the eyes, around my nose, and the corners of my mouth, and also on any blemishes. A concealer’s job is to camouflage anything you don’t want people to see, e.g., breakouts or shadows. Again, you can use your fingers, a blender sponge, or a concealer brush.

  4 Brush up brows and fill in any sparse spots. I’m a brow person: I’m obsessed with Zendaya’s, Gigi’s, and Cara Delevingne’s. I like thick, not bushy, with a nice arch.

  5 Keep eyes nude or neutral. Just a hint of color will open them up and make you look more awake in the a.m. Start with an eye shadow primer—this will keep the shadow from fading. Next, sweep your color all over the lid—I like something in a soft beige with a bit of shimmer to it. You can use either a cream or powder.

  6 Apply one or two coats of natural mascara. I’m loving Marc Jacobs’s at the moment because it really defines and lengthens without being clumpy. The Sigma Beauty one is also great and not too expensive.

  7 Apply a cream blush in a rosy shade to the apples of your cheeks. I also put a touch on my lips as a tint, then top with a clear gloss.

  8 Finish with a setting spray and you’re ready to start your day.

  STAGE MAKEUP

  Spotlight-worthy Smoky Eyes

  If you’re a dancer, you should learn to master this look—it’s dramatic, but you need that when you’re performing. The eyes are the key to portraying the emotion of the dance, so you want yours to be seen. They should be a little exaggerated, and makeup artists often use a ton of different shadows and liners to create a really theatrical effect. I suggest starting with just a few steps and practicing. The key is to blend after every step, so there is no telltale line between the colors. “Smoky” is deep and dark, but it’s also smooth and smudgy. You can probably find a really good smoky palette that has three shadows (a light, medium, and dark) that work together. I like mine in the beige/brown/bronze family, but you can also go for silver/gray/black.

  1 Start by applying primer to the eyelids—this will set your base color and prevent it from fading or smudging.

  2 Your base color is a neutral. I would use a taupe/beige and apply it all over the lid. If you have a three-shadow palette, you want to use the medium shade for this step.

  3 Take your lightest color—usually something with a white, pink, or pearly shimmer if it’s part of a palette—and apply this highlighter to your brow bone, between the brow and the crease, and angled outward. Again, blend.

  4 Now apply the darkest shadow in a C shape, starting at the outside corner of your eyes and sweeping it inward along the upper lash line, then back up and around to halfway into the crease of your eyelid. Blend well.

  5 Using a black liner pencil or angled brush with powder, apply a thick line above the upper lash line. You can wing the liner out by extending the line up and out past your eye. Don’t go too long with it; just a flick, ending where your natural crease in the corner starts. Now apply a thin line of eyeliner to your bottom lash line as well and gently smudge it.

  6 Using a blending brush, start at the outer corner of your eye and blend toward the inside corner. I kind of do this windshield-wiper thing with my brush, to make sure there are no lines.

  7 Apply fake lashes or a dark, volumizing mascara. You can use a lash curler as well—it depends how dramatic you want to go. Two to three coats is a good idea, and use a lash comb to get out any clumps.

  A Red Lip That Won’t Quit

  Red lipstick used to scare me—I was worried it would wind up all over my teeth. Then I learned the proper way to apply it so (almost) nothing you do will make it kiss off.

  1 Start with a lip conditioner/primer—this smooths everything out so color will go on evenly. If the lips are properly hydrated, lip products will glide on like butter. Tonya says to apply it while you do the rest of your face, then blot off any excess with a tissue.

  2 Using a freshly sharpened red lip pencil and starting at the cupid’s bow, line from the center to the outer corner and repeat
on the opposite side.

  3 Now do the bottom lip starting from the outer corner; then stop at the center and repeat on the other side.

  4 Once the lips are lined, take the lipstick shade and load the product up onto a flat synthetic lip brush. Apply the lipstick in the same pattern as the pencil.

  5 Once the lip is applied, step back and look at it to make sure everything is even. If not, you can make necessary adjustments and clean up the edges using a little concealer with a flat synthetic concealer brush.

  6 Another trick: If the lipstick you’re using is too shiny, you can make it matte by lightly dusting a little translucent powder on it.

  Fake Lashes That Look Real (and Stay Put)

  Okay, so the first time I did this, the lashes just peeled right off and I couldn’t figure out what I was doing wrong. Then I experimented, especially with the length and thickness of the lashes and the glue. Here’s what I came up with.

  1 Start by trimming the lashes so they don’t extend beyond your own. Hold them up to your own lashes and measure. This is key! They have to be the right fit or they will not be anchored. Use small scissors to trim off the excess.

  2 Dot a thin layer of adhesive to the outer edge of the fake lash, but don’t stick it to your own lash line right away. Give it about fifteen to thirty seconds for the glue to get a little “tacky.” This makes all the difference, I promise!

  3 Now look down, and place the fake lash against your own lash line. Press the center down first, then the inner and outer corners. I open my eye, then “pinch” the lash into place. I count to ten and hold it.

  HAIR FLAIR: ONSTAGE AND IN THE STUDIO

  The Basic Bun

  A dancer’s BFF! I’ve done so many over the years, I don’t need a mirror to do mine anymore; I can get it smooth and tight with my eyes closed!

  1 Start by brushing your hair so it’s free of any knots or tangles. Now use the brush to pull hair back into a ponytail, holding it with one hand while you brush with the other. Make sure the pony is centered. I think the best height is right at the crown, but some people prefer a low bun (at the nape) or a high one (on top of the head). I use a teasing brush to smooth it, concentrating first on the top and sides, then tackling the back. The back around the nape can get tricky because of bumps. Make sure you smooth every hair flat.

  2 Fasten with a hair elastic. Make sure it’s tight, even if it hurts a little. You can always loosen it up, but you’ll have to start all over again if it’s not tight enough.

  3 Use a firm-hold hair spray to get every little wisp under control, smoothing with your hand and your teasing brush. Make sure you check the sides around your ears and the hairs at the back of your neck.

  4 Now take the ponytail in your hand and twist it counterclockwise into a tight “rope.” Some dancers like to split the ponytail into two sections to make twisting easier. It really depends on how thick your hair is. I like to do it all in one.

  5 Begin wrapping your “rope” around the elastic, flattening it out a little as you go around and using pins to secure. The U-shaped “digger” hair pins are key. I use a ton; I would honestly recommend a minimum of twenty. Any fewer and you risk it falling out. Continue pinning till you reach the very end of your “rope,” then tuck the ends under. It should kind of look like a cinnamon bun. Pin some more! Some ballerinas like to use a hairnet, but I don’t. They remind me of a lunch lady! If you make your twist tight enough, you won’t need the net.

  6 Finish with a heavy-duty hair spray—I like Big Sexy Hair. You want to freeze your bun in place—especially if you’re in a competition. If you take away two tips from this how-to, they should be “lots of pins; heavy spray!”

  The French Twist

  Kenzie is constantly asking me to do this for her—she says she can’t do it on herself. But it’s so easy, and it always looks elegant.

  1 First tip: it’s actually harder to do a French twist on hair that’s clean—it slips out. Bed head is better. But make sure to brush out any knots before you start (Kenzie hates that part).

  2 Using a teasing brush, smooth all your hair straight back. I like to take some hair spray to make sure there are no flyaways, but you can also use spray gel. Gather your hair into a ponytail about an inch above the nape of the neck. Use your left hand to hold the pony tight, as you use your right hand to begin twisting hair in a clockwise direction, pulling it up at the same time. Make sure you twist the “rope” tightly. When you reach the end, there will be a few ends sticking out. You can leave them this way (in a “fan”), or tuck and pin them under. This is the more classic style; the other has a bit more edge.

  3 Hold the “rope” by the ends with one hand while you use the other to roll the rope into your head. Now pin, pin, pin all along the rope, securing it. I’m not kidding: You cannot use enough pins on this style. I will go through fifty.

  4 When you’re done pinning, spray the entire head with a firm-hold hair spray. You can add a pretty, glittery hair clip if you want. Now you’re ready to dance!

  HAIR FLAIR: GOING OUT

  Fishtail Braid

  I do this style whenever my mom yells, “Maddie, hurry up!” and my hair is either wet or not cooperating. It looks complicated, but it’s really not—especially when you get the hang of it.

  1 Brush hair to get rid of any knots or tangles. Using a teasing brush, smooth hair back into a ponytail either at the nape of the neck or to one side, just below the ear.

  2 Divide hair into two equal sections, left and right. Hold the right section with your right hand. Use your other hand to take a thin section of hair from the outside of the left section and cross it over to the inside of the right section. Transfer it to your other hand and you have two sections again. Pull the braid tight.

  3 Now you’re going to do the same thing with the other section. Use your left hand to hold the left section, and your other hand to take a thin strand from the outer right section and cross it over to the inside of the left section. Transfer the hair again, and you’re back to two sections. Pull tight.

  4 That’s all there is to it! Continue picking up thin sections and repeating this pattern. When you reach the ends, secure the braid with an elastic. You’re good to go.

  Polished Pony

  I’ve worn this look on the red carpet for the Kids’ Choice Awards—it’s really easy. If you can make a basic pony, you’ve got this.

  1 Brush hair to get rid of any knots or tangles. Using a teasing brush, smooth hair into a ponytail. You can decide where you want to place it: low, high, or to the side just below the ear, like I did. Make your pony, but leave a small (one-inch) section under it loose. Use an elastic to fasten your pony. It should be fairly tight, and you want to make sure there are no bumps or bulges or wispies hanging out. Use hair spray to keep things neat and tidy.

  2 Now braid the loose section and secure the end of the braid with a small, clear elastic.

  3 Wind the braid loosely around the base of the pony. If your hair is long, you can wind it several times. The idea is to completely cover the elastic. Tuck the ends under the elastic to secure. You can use a curling iron to give the ponytail some wave—or not! Now spray away again and you’re red-carpet ready.

  Dear Maddie

  My mom refuses to let me wear makeup to school! I’m twelve, and I think it’s so unfair! My friends say I should just keep it in my locker, wear what I want, and wash it off before I get home.

  I don’t think it’s a good idea to go behind your mom’s back and lie about it. Honesty is always the best policy when it comes to your parent. Can you sit her down and come up with a compromise? Maybe, “I’ll just wear a little light mascara and some lip gloss—it will barely be noticeable?” Makeup is fun, but to be honest, I don’t wear a lot of it unless I’m on a stage. Maybe your mom would allow you to wear makeup for more special occasions? Also, ask yourself why you want to wear makeup so badly: Is it because it makes you feel pretty and confident (a good argument to make with your mom) or because all your fr
iends are doing it (not a good argument to make with your mom)?

  A new girl started in our school and I was the first person to be her friend. But as soon as the popular crowd started paying attention to her, she blew me off. It’s like she’s found “better” friends and dumped me. I feel used!

  What you did was a really nice thing—you made a new girl who didn’t have any friends feel welcome and showed her around. You were a kind and caring person. I’m sorry she’s not being nice in return, but she’s also shown you that she’s not a reliable friend. So maybe she did you a favor: Do you really want someone around you who says she’s your friend but doesn’t act like it? If you really want to continue this friendship, you could talk to her and tell her how you feel. But if she’s only interested in popularity, not in people, maybe it’s not worth your time and effort.

  My dance costume for my contemporary solo is the ugliest thing I have ever seen! It’s neon green with a huge ruffle around my butt—I look like a frog! Why is my dance teacher trying to humiliate me? What if everyone cracks up when I come out on stage?

  I have worn so many silly, weird, bizarre, ridiculous costumes for dance competitions! And at the time, I was probably just as embarrassed as you are, but now I look back on it and laugh. It didn’t change my performance if I was dressed like a zombie, a cancan dancer, or even an ’80s Madonna wannabe. In fact, I’ve won in some of the craziest costumes with ruffles or pom-poms attached in awkward places. In “Stomp the Yard,” Kenzie had to wear a bright orange wig (that was pretty funny, but don’t tell her I said so). Don’t dwell on what you’re wearing; focus on the amazing, beautiful dancing you’re going to be doing—entertain the audience. Nobody will laugh when they see how talented you are. They’ll be impressed! And I don’t think your teacher is trying to embarrass you on purpose. Maybe she thinks the “frog princess” look is pretty, or it really captures the essence of your choreography? Or maybe she’s just color-blind? Whatever the reason, you can get through this if you let your inner beauty and confidence outshine your wardrobe.